Populist, Corner House, Tables

Team Delicatessen has been trying a bunch of new restaurants lately, thanks to Foodie Friend Mike's funemployment and his need to fill his time while waiting for his next assignment. Here's the team's initial thoughts on a couple newer Denver spots. It should be noted, we've only been to these places once and haven't tried everything yet.

POPULIST: This cozy hipster restaurant on 32nd and Larimer, diagonal from Infinite Monkey Theorem, fills up quickly and doesn't take reservations for parties smaller than six. The place had filled up by 6 p.m. on a recent Saturday, so we passed the time waiting for a table trying some drinks. Two sommeliers in the group thought the wine list seemed really esoteric.

As our server explained, the dishes are plated so they could be shared. The menu has very simple descriptions ("bacon and egg," "pork and rice," e.g.), inviting conversation with the server to find out more. And yet, the place was SO LOUD, that it was so hard to hear anything out of our server's mouth. We assume the dining experience will be more enjoyable on the patio, once it opens. In any case, the mussels and marrow was fantastic, with fresh mussels and a big hunk of bone filled with marrow. The scallop dish had a perfect sear. A pork sausage dish served with a dollop of mustard and what I think our server said was poached pear (?) and pea shoots had a lovely almost sweet, wine-like flavor on the pork. There was a dish with carrots done 3 ways. The winner on that dish was the pureed carrot. Mmm! We tried the lemon tartt, which had an almost brittle-like bottom layer. Served with dollops of yogurt. We'd try this place again, but perhaps early on a weeknight when the place may (who knows) be a little calmer?

CORNER HOUSE has a lovely space in Jefferson Park. Exec chef Matt Selby was working the kitchen when we stopped for lunch and was bringing plates out to customers too. The curry chicken thigh panini, grilled avocado salad (w/arugula and citrus), and short rib chiliquiles were fine, but we want to stop back for dinner, which has some tantalizing menu items including a Roasted Winter Squash Soup with lobster. Original cocktails also are an emphasis here. Foodie Mike tried ordering one, only to be told that bar manager Gerard Collier would have to be the one to make it, and he wasn't in yet. (The place stays open til 10 p.m., and we were there in the afternoon.) After he arrived, the said cocktail was made. Foodie Mike got the Western Slope, a deliciously dangerous mix of whiskey, absinthe, sloe gin & elderberry soda.

This isn't that new, but we finally got to TABLES, which recently put out its spring menu. Cute neighborhood place, incredibly knowledgeable servers, laid-back feel. It's not a cheap place, but one thing we'll say: Try the basil gnocchi! Terrific flavors and great texture/taste on the gnocchi.